2006 5HP Charging kit installation
As my prolonged internet search found virtually no information regarding how to install the battery charging option which Honda makes available for its 5 HP outboard, let me provide a bit of guidance for anyone who thinks this might be a useful option.
The Honda kit, delivered (but no sales tax) costs about $210. Inside the box are a new flywheel, two coils to be mounted on the crankcase under the new fly wheel, a rectifier, and a 5 amp fuse/plug assembly. Requisite 5mm and 6mm bolts are provided with a special cable tie and a metal wiring routing guide (to keep wires clear of the spinning flywheel). Conspicuous by their absence are any instructions or photographs. You are on your own.
The big Seloc Honda outboard shop manual says nothing about the kit installation but does provide some flywheel removal information as well as torque setting for flywheel installation.
Here’s what I did.
Seloc says the pull starter mechanism should be removed before removing the fly wheel for access. (I did, but I question whether this is really necessary.) I also removed the induction coil which is mounted at the back of the old flywheel to allow access for the strap wrench I used to secure the flywheel during removal and reinstallation .
Seloc says the Honda flywheel must be removed using the type of flywheel puller which bolts into the fly wheel and not the jaws type puller. Accordingly I went to Harbor Freight where for about $13 I bought the bolt on type puller. Of course, the HF puller kit did not come with the three 65mm long, 6mm diameter bolts needed to mount the puller on the Honda flywheel. So, off to Lowes for the bolts.
Puller mounted, the flywheel held stationary with a strap wrench, a few turns on the puller’s center bolt and the flywheel popped free - EZPZ. Nothing like having the right tools! Seloc says don’t lose the woodruff key which positions the flywheel at the right spot on the crankshaft. My woodruff key was seized in the crankshaft slot...it wasn’t going anywhere so I left it alone.
With the flywheel off, the four 6mm mounting holes for the two new charging coils are readily apparent on the crankcase. Also, nestled between the left side coil mounting holes is a smaller 5mm hole for mounting the wiring guide, keeping the new coil wiring clear of the spinning flywheel.
Not clear to me was where to mount the rectifier. I saw two 6mm holes at the bottom left side of the engine casing (not the crankcase) but which hole to use and should the six rectifier wires point aft or forward? Finally I Googled “5 HP Honda Outboard Photos” and scrolled through many until a saw a pic which some kind soul had taken of his charging kit equipped motor’s left side with the cover off. On his engine and now on mine, the rectifer is secured with the short 6mm bolt in the forward of the two holes on the left hand side of the engine case with the wires facing aft.
The plug/socket and fuse assembly positions are clear. The socket goes in the rectangular hole in the engine case left side forward. The 5 amp fuse housing has two rubber “slots” which fit in “U”castings on the engine case left side.
Now the fun part. The holes for mounting the coils, rectifier, wire router and socket are not threaded. Yikes! I looked carefully at the provided bolts thinking maybe they are self threading...and perhaps they are, I don’t know. I decided not to risk it and not wanting a half-assed job, I set about looking for a 5mm and 6mm tap set. I considered HF but ended up going to Home Depot for US made taps, a bit more expensive than HF’s offerings, but with much better testimonials of customer satisfaction.
I’ve never previously tapped anything, so I went to Wikipedia which had a very helpful article on the topic. I took my time, lubing the tap with 3 in 1 oil, cutting a bit, cleaning out the swarf (pipe cleaner) and then more oil and more cutting until the tap fetched up at the bottom of the hole. I didn’t force any thing because I didn’t want to strip my new aluminum threads with the case hardened steel tap. Took me about an hour for all eight holes. Really quite easy.
Holes threaded, I installed the coils torqueing the 6mm bolts to 48 inch/pounds (note: inch/pounds not foot/pounds). I routed the coil wires down and close to the left side of the crankcase, well clear of the flywheel and secured by the metal wire routing guide.
Installing the new flywheel was a snap. The flywheel was placed on the crankshaft, positioned by the woodruff key. A strap wrench held the flywheel steady while the crankshaft center bolt was torqued to 54 ft/lb (note: foot/pounds not inch/pounds).
Flywheel in place, I secured the rectifier to the newly tapped forward hole with wires facing aft. The rest was just connecting color coded wires (pink to pink, yellow to yellow, red to red, and green to green.
There is an air intake on the left side of the engine just to the right of where the rectifier is installed. On the top of that intake is a white plastic clip holding some wires. That white clip is removed and discarded. The special black cable tie in the kit is inserted in its place. This cable tie secures the wires formerly held by the white clip and the all the new coil/rectifier wires as well.
With the new stuff in place all that’s left is returning the ignition coil and the recoil starter to their old spots.
Not counting trips to HF, Lowes and Home Depot, the job took me about 6 hours...much of that time spent thinking and web research. Instructions would have been helpful, but this job is really not hard to do.
Taps: 5mm & 6mm
Sockets: 8mm & 10mm for bolts; 19mm for flywheel center bolt
Bolt type flywheel puller & three 6mm bolts, each 65 mm long
Foot/Pound torque wrench
Inch Pound torque wrench